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A Rastafarian influence hangs heavy in this area, home to the famously good hostel, Rocking J's. For $6, guests can rock to sleep in one of the supersized hammocks packed together in a big, open-air dorm room.

Still, Puerto Viejo, for all its beach views and surf spots, didn't quite fit my image of the perfect un-touristy spot -- too much division between the locals and the tourists.

During my stay, a group of locals jumped two backpackers walking back to Rocking J's from a bar. The duo sprinted away with their money intact, but one, a junior from the University of Colorado, returned with a deep gash on his cheek and scratches along his sides.

With my optimism slightly bruised, I proceeded next to La Fortuna and nearby Monteverde, nestled side-by-side in the tall mountains at the center of the country.

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NEWS AND BLOGS ABOUT CARIBE SUR - THE OTHER COSTA RICA - Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo, Cocles, Chiquita Village, Limón, Costa Rica